It’s been nearly 150 years since the clash that transformed some gentle fields in northern Maryland to the hallowed status of Civil War battlefields. More than 2,000 men were wounded or lost their lives during the Battle of Monocacy, where Union troops were able to delay a Confederate march to Washington just long enough for the city to adequately prepare itself to weather the attack.

Though the cannons that fired during “The Battle That Saved Washington” have long since been silenced, the battlefield is anything but quiet. The 1,647 acres of pasture, riverbank, and ridgeline set aside to commemorate the battle are also a natural oasis, providing important habitat for wildlife in an otherwise densely developed part of the state. NPCA’s Birding the Battlefields program works to raise awareness of the natural aspects of historic national parks, and earlier this month I led a bird walk at Monocacy to share what the park had to offer.

The group met at Worthington Farm, near the site where Confederate cavalry forded the Monocacy River during the battle to flank the Union position. Several of the participants were longtime residents of the area, but none had visited this site before, and they marveled at how beautiful it was. The tree-lined fields were alive with birds in the midst of their nesting duties. Baltimore orioles shuttled food back and forth to unseen nests, and a gorgeous male scarlet tanager scanned the surroundings from a treetop.

Most interesting to the gathered birders were the near-constant rattles of rare grasshopper sparrows from the fields (I think their call sounds like the Price is Right theme song, but no one else really agreed). These little birds breed in grassy fields that are hard to find in the Mid-Atlantic, but are common on protected battlefields.

We walked the Ford Loop Trail from Worthington Farm down along the bank of the Monocacy. The trail is lush and fragrant, lined with head-high cow parsnip plants, and provides great bird habitat. Acadian flycatchers called sharply nearby, and a beautiful male black-and-white warbler perched casually on a tree trunk. One of our most satisfying discoveries was a yellow-billed cuckoo—far more often heard than seen—perched in full view. In all, we saw 47 different bird species, from field-loving varieties like the indigo bunting to deep-woods birds like the pileated woodpecker to water birds, including the majestic great blue heron. The participants were excited not only to have learned more about the important history that took place in their region, but to find new and beautiful natural areas to explore as well.

After the thrill of seeing so many birds in a single day, it’s sad to mention a new threat to the animals—and people—in this area. Park officials have been fighting a proposal to build a trash-burning incinerator on the opposite bank of the Monocacy River, just yards away from the battlefield boundary. NPCA is working to oppose the ill-conceived plan. You can take action to help protect Monocacy’s birds, and learn more about our Birding the Battlefields program.

Editor’s note: The comment period on our action to speak out against the incinerator at Monocacy recently closed—we regret any confusion. Rest assured, NPCA will stay on top of the issue and let our supporters know about new opportunities to speak out on this important issue.

Each month, NPCA puts together a slideshow exploring one of the 401 amazing sites in our National Park System. To get the featured park delivered to your inbox each month, sign up for Park Lines, NPCA’s newsletter.

-Jennifer Errick, Editor, Online Communications

If you liked this story, you might also like

• Take a Hike! 19 Ways to Celebrate National Trails Day (May 31, 2013)
• Take an Online Tour of Theodore Roosevelt National Park, Featured in NPCA’s New Report on Fracking (April 30, 2013)
• Friday Photo: Happy National Oceans Month (June 8, 2012)

NPCA will also host four volunteer events this Saturday, so if you’re near North Cascades, Gettysburg, the C & O Canal, or Baltimore City, be sure to check the links below. And… happy trails!

-Jennifer Errick, Editor, Online Communications

Northwest

• Obstruction Point to Deer Park Trail (Grand Ridge Trail), Olympic National Park, Washington*

This 7.4-mile trail at a steady 6,400-foot elevation skirts along a ridgeline high above deep valleys within Olympic National Park, revealing a desolate landscape far different from the moss-draped old-growth forests and windswept beaches normally associated with this park.

-David Graves, Northwest Program Manager

• Burroughs Mountain Trail (to Second Burroughs), Mount Rainier National Park, Washington

I love trails that make me feel small and this trail will do just that as you hike out a high, alpine ridge toward the larger-than-life, icy cone of Mount Rainier.

-Shane Farnor, Online Advocacy Manager

Pacific

• The Coast Trail from Palomarin Trailhead to Alamere Falls, Point Reyes National Seashore, California

This moderate, 7.5-mile out-and-back hike is a favorite because it culminates with a spectacular view of a rare kind of waterfall that empties directly into the Pacific Ocean.

-Reina Gonzales, Northeast Regional Coordinator

• The Land’s End Trail, Golden Gate National Recreation Area, California**

Golden Gate National Recreation Area’s Land’s End trail offers hiking and labyrinth-walking along the coast, with jaw-dropping views of the Golden Gate Bridge and sailboats traveling in and out of the city’s fog veil. Whether on a typical foggy or a rare, sunny day, the unbeatable scenery makes this trail truly a San Francisco treat.

-Kati Schmidt, Senior Media Relations Manager

Southwest

• Tsankawi Trail, Bandelier National Monument, New Mexico

This trail is amazing! The 1.5 mile trail is an ancient trail from the 1400s, which is worn (sometimes several feet deep) into the stone and leads to a mesa top, complete with expansive views, Tewa Pueblo ruins, pottery shards, cave dwellings, and ladders (not a great trail for those afraid of heights)!

-Madeleine Starkey, Membership Senior Administrative Coordinator

• Queens Garden Trail continuing to the Peek-A-Boo Loop Trail, Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah

The trail winds through bright orange hoodoos of all shapes and sizes through a trek that reminded me more of Mars than Earth.

-Sarah Gaines Barmeyer, Great Waters Program Manager

• Rim Trail-Queens Garden-Navajo Loop (three trails to form a loop), Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah

I only hiked this trail once in late winter, but it left quite an impression on me. A fresh blanket of snow covered the hoodoos and we saw only a couple other hikers; it was like getting a glimpse into another bizarre, lonely planet.

-Shane Farnor, Online Advocacy Manager

• Angels Landing, Zion National Park, Utah

I love it because it is a challenging trail with chains that takes you close to the edge of a cliff; the views are spectacular! You get to see what the soaring condors see! A close second is Observation Point, also in Zion. Both trails are magical and make you really appreciate the park and the environment.

-Elizabeth Kirsch, Southwest Regional Coordinator

Midwest

• Miller Woods Trail (just opened this spring), Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore, Indiana**

In a little over a mile you go through all the great landscapes in this park–from woods to wetlands to dunes to Lake Michigan shoreline! BEAUTIFUL!

-Lynn McClure, Midwest Regional Director

Northeast

• Abol Trail, Appalachian Trail, Maine

Climb Mount Katahdin, which is at the beginning or end of Appalachian Trail (dependent upon your point of view), then for a change of scenery, take the Saddle Trail back down (which is supposedly easier, but it’s definitely longer than it looks).

-Alexander Brash, Northeast Regional Director

Mid-Atlantic

• Whiteoak Canyon and Cedar Run, Shenandoah National Park, Virginia*

This trail is non-stop waterfalls for about nine miles and gains about 2,000 feet in elevation—it’s challenging, with great views.

-Ben Sander, Travel Program Coordinator

• Limberlost Trail, Shenandoah National Park, Virginia**

It’s great for hiking with young children, and we always get good wildlife viewing, from wild turkeys to black bears up in trees!

-Laura Atchison, Board and National Council Liaison

• The Southern Arboreal Section of Rock Creek Park, Washington, D.C.

This very nice nearly nine-mile loop is a great hike for fall or spring with a really nice view of the city from Holy Rood Cemetery.

-Bruce Marshall, Director of Member Services

Southeast

• White Rocks-Sand Cave Loop Trail, Cumberland Gap National Historical Park, Virginia, Tennessee, and Kentucky*

Coming out of Ewing, Virginia, this trail takes you up to White Rocks, with a beautiful vista of the Tennessee Valley and (on a clear day) the distant Great Smoky Mountains, and then over to an enormous sandstone amphitheater characteristic of the Cumberland Mountains.

-Don Barger, Southeast Regional Director

• The Appalachian Trail across the Roan Highlands and over Hump Mountain, western North Carolina*

This is a stunning 14-mile hike over a series of open mountain peaks exceeding 6,000 feet in elevation and that feature rare heath balds and purple Catawba rhododendrons.

-Ron Tipton, Senior Vice President of Park Policy

NPCA-Hosted Volunteer Events

NPCA is hosting four events on Saturday, June 1, to celebrate National Trails Day.

• Join us for a trail cleanup at Valley Forge National Historical Park in King of Prussia, Pennsylvania, 8 a.m. to 1 p.m.
• Take part in our annual restoration project at North Cascades National Park in Diablo, Washington, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.
• Help restore the towpath and trails on the C&O Canal by removing invasive plants and clearing debris near the River Center at Lock 8 in Cabin John Maryland, near Washington, D.C., 9 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.
• Join us in improving the Gwynns Falls Trail by removing debris and invasive plants and planting trees in Baltimore, Maryland, starting at 9 a.m.

*This trail can be strenuous and is recommended for experienced hikers. Always research the route in advance and bring a buddy and plenty of water and snacks.

**This trail is less difficult and may be appropriate for less experienced hikers and families with children, though be sure to consult a map, bring plenty of water, and ask a park ranger questions if you have specific concerns.

We often talk about “connecting with nature” and how important it is for urban residents to have access to green space. It improves our physical health, reduces our stress, and even improves our mood to have a world-class park near home.

Chicago is lucky to have a spectacular urban oasis in Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore. I know because I recently returned to the Chicago area, as the wife of the new president of the Field Museum, and I was delighted to experience this wonderful national park so near the city on a recent trip with NPCA and museum staff. Our two organizations have formed a vibrant partnership to support the lakeshore as one of the most important natural areas in the Chicago metro area.

What’s so special about this place? We saw so much to marvel at.

We walked the trail at Miller Woods, through “dune and swale” communities dominated by black oaks. What an amazing topography only found around the Great Lakes, supporting very special native flora and fauna. We saw the rare native Lupine nearly in bloom. This is a plant that the endangered Karner Blue butterfly needs to reproduce and thrive. And, of course, blueberry bushes were all about. We also saw over 50 species of birds, including seven different kinds of warblers, though our late spring affected their migration through the park. My favorite sighting was three red-headed woodpeckers bickering over a prime nesting hole in one of the black oaks.

A couple of years ago, NPCA and the Field Museum teamed up to develop a strategic vision for the park, and now we are working to implement the recommendations of that plan by letting more Chicagoans know this amazing resource is right in their back yards. We also work to promote science and research at the park, ecological restoration, and responsible management of the park’s natural communities, especially to help mitigate the effects of climate change in our region.

Many, many more people need to enjoy the trails at Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore. It is a magical place that beckons all to reconnect with the natural world and is truly Chicago’s neighborhood national park.

Read the Indiana Dunes strategic vision: http://www.npca.org/about-us/regional-offices/midwest/About-Indiana-Dunes-Report.html

Plan your own trip to Indiana Dunes: www.nps.gov/indu/

This week, we celebrate Death Valley at night, enjoy another top 20 list, get a good reminder to slow down and take things in, and catch a couple of celebrities showing their support for one of America’s amazing landscapes, among other things.

1. Sunchaser Pictures did it again. They created another great timelapse video in Death Valley National Park, Death Valley Dreamlapse 2. Death Valley is not only the lowest point in North America, but this past February the International Dark-Sky Association also designated Death Valley as the world’s newest and largest “Gold Tier” International Dark Sky Park. This three-minute film celebrates how special the park is after the stars come out.
2. It’s smart to be slow. Facebook national park supporter Shari S. posted this to Yellowstone National Park’s Facebook page. Slowing down is always a good safety reminder, but John Muir said it best when asked about the word hike: “I don’t like either the word or the thing. People ought to saunter in the mountains—not hike!” Don’t forget to slow down for the wildlife, but also to enjoy what the national parks can show you.
3. I love lists. More importantly, I love checking things off of my lists. But an ever-growing list of mine is my “amazing places to visit in my lifetime” list. CNN just published “20 of the world’s most beautiful World Heritage Sites,” and it wouldn’t be an accurate list without one of our most iconic national parks. What national parks have you yet to cross off?
4. Baby animals can help you on the job. I read a study once that taking a minute of each day to look at baby animals will increase productivity. Here is your dose of cute baby bison in Yellowstone National Park. I hope this improves your productivity.
5. I have a confession to make: I am addicted to infographics. REI just came out with a great one for Hiking the Beautiful USA. This infographic illustrates the scale of these amazing trails and shares tips for packing, too. Check it out and plan your next hike!
6. Celebrities pose for the canyons. Neil Young and Daryl Hannah were spotted in Moab, Utah, where they happily took this picture supporting the protection of Greater Canyonlands.

Let me know what you have found on the ’net, and it could be in next week’s blog post!

-Megan Cantrell, Senior Coordinator of Member Engagement

Related post

If you enjoyed the new video by Sunchaser Pictures, read our interview with director Gavin Heffernan and his five tips for creating your own time-lapse film: “Behind the Scenes of Death Valley Dreamlapse.”

As a resident of the New York City area and the wife of a business school student, I’ve spent countless hours listening to my peers discuss which new mobile app or digital tool will revolutionize America and improve the quality of life for people throughout the nation. Yet, I remain convinced that one of America’s greatest products does not rely on software upgrades or Wi-Fi access to bring happiness to an increasing number of Americans each year. I’m referring to an island oasis filled with sun-kissed mountains, sandy beaches, and deep blue waters located off the coast of Maine: Acadia National Park.

Acadia National Park is located near the town of Bar Harbor on Maine’s Mount Desert Island and became a national park site in 1916. The region was initially inhabited by the native Wabanaki people and the first Europeans settled in 1763. Since then, Bar Harbor has been home to such prominent Americans as John D. Rockefeller, Jr., who invested millions into Acadia. Most notably, he financed, designed, and directed the construction of an innovative 50-mile network of carriage trails throughout the park between 1915 and 1933. Like all great businessmen, Mr. Rockefeller recognized the significant value of Acadia and was dedicated to increasing the public’s access and exposure to this national treasure.

Mr. Rockefeller made a commitment to public access in Acadia that continues to this day. With a generous contribution from Nature Valley, NPCA recently partnered with Friends of Acadia, a leading organization in grassroots park stewardship, and the National Park Service (NPS) to help fulfill the goal of completing Village Connector Trails to provide better access to the park. These trails are designed to decrease automobile congestion while facilitating increased connectivity of visitors and residents to the park, continuing Rockefeller’s legacy.

On June 2, 2012, National Trails Day, I had the opportunity to represent NPCA at the dedication ceremony of the Duck Brook Connector Trail, the fifth trail in the Village Connector Trail series. This trail begins on Maine’s Route 3 outside the front entrance of the Acadia Inn and (thanks to a generous easement from the inn) provides a direct route to the carriage roads developed by Mr. Rockefeller almost a century earlier. During the trail dedication, I was struck by the number and diversity of people who attended: They were neighbors and tourists, seasoned park-lovers and first-timers, retirees and college students. Despite inclement weather, they were eager to commend the tremendous efforts of NPCA, Friends of Acadia, and NPS and hike the new trail for the first time.

The effort to make Acadia more open and accessible is not over. Nature Valley has continued to provide generous funding toward this project, and NPCA in conjunction with Friends of Acadia is currently completing another trail in Trenton, Maine, just outside the new Acadia Welcome Center. And as I toured my favorite national park this past October, I reflected on other initiatives that the various partners of Acadia, like Nature Valley, have advanced over the years to ensure that more people experience and appreciate this special place. Their work has included diverse projects, from clean, propane buses that tour the park to the Schoodic Education and Resource Center, Acadia’s training and research center dedicated to educating youth in one of Maine’s poorest communities.

Acadia, like other national parks, is a one-of-a-kind, American-made creation that has provided ecological health, recreational opportunities, economic prosperity, and an appreciation for the natural world to millions of people. At NPCA, we will continue to champion Acadia and applaud the efforts of NPS and Friends of Acadia for bringing the park to a larger and more diverse segment of America. I am grateful to Nature Valley and other public and private partners that recognize our national parks are ventures that are just as worthy of investment today as they were almost a century ago.

In conservation, it is easy to get wrapped up in wonky policy debates or overcome by process. Fortunately, my Nature Valley-sponsored “Path of the Pronghorn” hikes each fall are a poignant reminder of the beauty and natural order that exist in Yellowstone National Park and why we work so hard to protect it.

This season, I led five trips with a total of 35 individuals across Mount Everts, a prominent peak in the park’s northern range. Starting at the pronghorns’ high-altitude summer habitat of the Blacktail Deer Plateau, following ancient migration paths across a forgotten landscape for more than ten miles, we drop several thousand feet in elevation to arrive at the animals’ wintering grounds near Gardiner, Montana, near the north entrance of Yellowstone.

During the course of this cross-country jaunt, I explain the biological and natural history of the Yellowstone pronghorn while observing them in the backcountry, unaffected by roads or other development. The importance of our Nature Valley habitat improvement project becomes all the more obvious after seeing pronghorn unfettered by fences. Much of the time when I’m working with volunteers to improve pronghorn habitat, we are removing or adapting fences to help the animals migrate safely and find adequate snow-free winter habitat. These hikes, however, are about enjoying the many surprises the backcountry has to offer.

Hiking during the fall rutting season, we often get to witness the famous elk bugle, so close you can almost feel their breath. It’s also not uncommon to wander up on a lone bison bull standing motionless under a scratching pine—more than once we had to alter our route to avoid these iconic and stately sentinels of Yellowstone. Last year, a large group of us were even fortunate enough to witness the entire Blacktail wolf pack—16 animals—trot right in front of us, and we were able to follow and observe them hunting elk.

Over the past three seasons guiding more than 100 people, I’ve yet to take the same path twice. Every trip has had its own special sightings and experiences.

On September 30, our hike started out as so many have in the frosty first hours of dawn near the still and reflective Blacktail Ponds. After a few hours we arrived at the first of the many unnamed kettle ponds that dot the plateau of Mt. Everts. Normally, this is right in the middle of the elk activity, but despite hearing them bugle in Gardiner and Mammoth on the drive up, we were not hearing nor seeing anything. When a skittish bison took off running at the sight of us almost a half mile away, I realized wolves had been back since my last hike. With all the prey animals chased out of the area, we were not expecting to see much the rest of the day. I decided to take a detour to a slight saddle to the west, figuring if there were elk anywhere they would be there, so we should at least take a look. Plus, I knew of a rare moose horn to show folks along the way.

Just as we arrived on a hill before the pass, I stopped to spot the horn with my binoculars. What I saw instead was a large collared wolf appearing over the horizon. Black as a new moon and totally uninterested in us, we watched this magnificent animal continue into the draw below us. Excited and stunned, we all stood there basking in our good fortune.

Should we continue toward where the wolf had just been? As we considered what to do next, I looked up and saw we had more company.

We froze as a second wolf, this one large and gray-colored, came over the same hill, snorting and sniffing the ground as it went, only interested in the black wolf’s scent. It headed toward a small kettle pond and was bounding through the tall reeds around it when we saw the black wolf’s head pop up. The gray wolf disappeared while the black wolf jumped toward it. This hide-and-seek went back and forth for a number of minutes until the black wolf moved south and we lost sight of it.

The gray wolf then sat on the hill above the pond for more than 15 minutes while we sat eating our lunch. Just looking around cool and calm as can be, it could have been mistaken for a pet dog on a porch. Finally, it howled mournfully for a full fifteen minutes across the hillsides with only the five of us and the rest of the wildlife there to enjoy the moving sound. When visitors see wolves along the roads of Yellowstone, they typically share the experience with dozens of others. To experience wildlife like this, alone in the backcountry, is as unparalleled as it is unforgettable. Finally, the gray wolf got a response (the black wolf?) and disappeared over the hill.

Sharing this seemingly inaccessible corner of the park and experiencing the landscape and wildlife as they are meant to be goes far beyond any typical sense of workplace satisfaction. Mount Everts is a profound source of pleasure and renewal, and a reminder of the responsibility we have when we live in the shadow of Yellowstone to protect its endless wonders and surprises.

The final two destinations of our summer adventure in the national parks, though neighbors, are a study in contrast. One, Mount Rainier, is a national park. The other, Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument, is not part of the National Park System, but easily could be. Today, it is operated by the U.S. Forest Service. Both places captivated our kids, but Rainier’s accessibility made for a much richer experience. Unlike Rainier, Mount St. Helens has no overnight accommodations–no lodge or campgrounds–making it a challenge to explore deeply with young kids, unless you want to backpack in a location remote from the park’s center–the gaping crater created by the volcano’s 1980 eruption. We were fortunate to stay at the nearby, family-run Eco Park Resort, a lodge with delightful cabins, yurts, campsites, and great food.

The premier destination at Mount St. Helens is Johnston Ridge Observatory, with its birds-eye view of the crater, its fancy theater and film, and several exhibits the kids enjoyed–particularly one that enabled them to create their own earthquake and see its intensity on a seismometer. The shortcoming is the lack of interpretive options beyond the observatory. A Forest Service ranger delivered an engaging Junior Ranger talk to the kids, which was held outdoors overlooking the mountain. But, when we all got hungry, there was no place to eat. No restaurant. No picnic tables. So, we pulled out our cooler from the car and ate sandwiches on a concrete median strip in the parking lot. It wasn’t until we visited Coldwater Lake at the end of our day that we saw there were actually picnic tables; they were simply 10 miles away from where all the visitors were!

Once you venture away from the observatory building, the hiking options for kids in this part of Mount St. Helens are limited. The hike to the valley floor is a fascinating journey, but too much for young kids–long, strenuous, and exposed. So, we hiked a ways down the trail and turned around. There are nice trails in other parts of the monument, but getting there is an hours-long, challenging journey.

Fortunately, Mount Rainier, our final park, offers a bounty of hiking options that the kids truly enjoyed. At Paradise on the south side of the mountain, we hiked the Skyline trail through glorious fields of lupine until we reached a delightful snowfield that provided us with a slippery playground, much to the viewing pleasure of two nearby marmots. We couldn’t tell what the Marmots thought of Isabelle’s wolf puppet, Logan Lightning Bolt, who accompanied us.

The ranger-led Junior Ranger talk in the Paradise visitor center was probably the best we encountered in any national park we visited. The seasonal ranger, a retired school science teacher, “made” a glacier with the kids—a concoction similar to Dr. Seuss’s “oobleck,” with a consistency equivalent to Jello mixed with Silly Putty—to demonstrate how a glacier moves and show some other interesting properties of these ice forms. The session was fun and engaging, and as a bonus, each budding Junior Ranger who shared something they had learned received their own piece of the concoction. In truth, we all learned something! 

Since Rainier was our last park on a journey of many weeks, we treated ourselves to a stay at the Paradise Inn. The great room in the historic inn proved ideal for card-playing, completing Junior Ranger packets, and relaxing together to music emanating from a unique, one-of-a-kind piano. The inn is a fantastic location for exploring the popular Paradise area of the park.

The Sunrise area on the northeast side of the mountain also has fantastic hiking, and is where we elected to enjoy our last national park hike of the season. Of course, first our kids became Junior Rangers for the tenth time. Our loop began with a short ascent to Sourdough Ridge, and wound its way past Frozen and Shadow Lakes, before returning to the snack bar near the visitor center for a well-earned ice cream.

At Shadow Lake, Lucas finally hit the pumice jackpot. He had been determined to find a sample of the one rock that can actually float, and in an exciting turn of luck, he finally found one. Monty Python was right; very small rocks DO float on water … provided they’re pumice and have plenty of air pockets.

The big tip this week is that both of these famous mountains are world-class treasures. Both are worth visiting, but Mount Rainier is the clear winner when it comes to variety, interpretive programs, and available accommodations. Mount St. Helens is full of untapped potential. When it comes to engaging visitors, Rainier is in a different league.

More stories in this series:

• Read week one at Sleeping Bear Dunes (August 31, 2012)
• Read week two, On to Pictured Rocks and the Ice Age Trail (September 7, 2012)
• Read week three, Olympic–A Gold Medal National Park for Kids (September 14, 2012)
• Read week four, Glacier–More than Ice and Snow (September 21, 2012)
• Read week five, On to Yellowstone! (September 28, 2012)
• Read week six, Inspiration, Perspiration, and Contemplation at Grand Teton (October 5, 2012)
• Read week seven, Volcanoes Are Cool (October 12, 2012)
• Read week eight, Adventures on Wizard Island (October 19, 2012)

Of course, if you’re looking for a really special experience, you can also travel with NPCA through our ParkScapes program. Check out more on our website.

Dog-Watching, Denali National Park, Alaska
Joan Frankevich, Alaska Regional Office Program Manager

Whenever I’m in Denali, I like to stop by the park’s kennel, near mile 3 of the park road, and visit the sled dogs. This is a unique opportunity—the only national park in America with working sled dogs. Historically, park rangers used dog teams to patrol the park and deter poachers. Today, sled dogs are used for work projects in wilderness areas, such as hauling materials to repair remote cabins. In summer, visitors can tour the historic kennel buildings, visit the dogs, and learn about the importance of sled dogs to Denali. Rangers give presentations and demonstrate a team in action by using a sled with wheels on a gravel path.

For me, visiting the park kennel is also a reminder of my first winter in Alaska, spent as a kennel volunteer more than 25 years ago.  My memories are fond, even though learning to mush dogs was so much harder than I anticipated. My intelligent lead dog, Mike, was all too happy to take advantage of my inexperience. He was well-trained to keep the line taut, but with me he would stop and lift his leg as he pleased, resulting in a tangled mess of dogs and lines. However once I learned how to mush, I had some stunning experiences traveling through Denali in winter. Mike is long since gone, but when I’m in the park, I remember him and am glad that the cultural tradition of dog sledding remains alive in Denali.

Hiking the Obstruction Point to Deer Park Trail, Olympic National Park, Washington
David G. Graves, Northwest Regional Office Program Manager

After reaching the Olympic Peninsula and the visitor center in Port Angeles, visitors can take the road up to Hurricane Ridge. On a clear day, the mountains of Olympic National Park stretch out across the horizon—the view encompasses more than 10 major peaks, including Mt. Olympus at 7,980 feet above sea level. At the top of Hurricane Ridge, some visitors may enjoy a short hike near Klahhane Ridge or Hurricane Hill, but for those who are able and willing, the 7.4 mile one-way trail from Obstruction Point to Deer Park Trail is the real jewel to explore. It’s not easy getting to Obstruction Point or Deer Park. The unimproved gravel road from the Hurricane Ridge parking area to Obstruction Point is steep, rocky, and only open a few months each year, and RVs and trailers are definitely not allowed. The road to Deer Park isn’t much better—it’s also a steep, narrow, gravel road. But the trail is well worth it. The highest trail in the park, it is surprisingly mellow, starting at 6,000 feet and only losing 700 feet over the 7.4 miles. The views of the peaks are even more spectacular than from Hurricane Ridge, and visitors can sit on a cliff ledge and observe the river valleys several hundreds of feet below. You cross near Elk Mountain, Maiden Peak, and Green Mountain, which are interspersed by wind-swept meadows and the aptly named Roaring Winds Camp. It’s unlikely you’ll see many people out on this trail since leaving a car at either end is extremely difficult, but even if you only go out a few miles and turn back, it’s well worth exploring this magnificent ridgeline trail with stunning views.

Hiking the Narrows in Zion National Park, Utah
Scott Kirkwood, Editor-in-Chief of National Parks magazine
Note: Be sure to check the the river conditions and bring proper gear before attempting this hike. If in doubt, call the Zion Canyon Visitor Center at (435) 772-0170.

To me, no hike compares to the Narrows in Zion National Park, Utah. That’s because it isn’t like any other hike I’ve been on—it’s more like a walk through a riverbed. The Virgin River carved a spectacular gorge through the upper portions of Zion Canyon—16 miles long, up to 2,000 feet deep—and from spring to fall, thousands of people walk much of its length and enjoy amazing views. Canyon walls are on either side, and the dramatic views change with every few steps. Stop by Zion Adventures in nearby Springdale and ask about the river’s conditions and what sort of gear you’ll need. I hiked the Narrows in September, when the water level ranged anywhere from ankle-deep to waist-deep. Water temps were warm enough that I needed only my hiking boots and a walking stick, but you can rent neoprene socks and other gear if the conditions require it. I packed a snack, stowed my camera inside two water-proof bags and I was off for a four-hour round-trip hike, joining dozens of other hikers who were smiling along the way, like little kids splashing around in a neighborhood stream on a summer afternoon.  

Want more info? Visit the NPS site: http://www.nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/the-narrows.htm.

Biking Gold Medal Park to Minnehaha Falls to Pike Island, Mississippi National River and Recreation Area, Minnesota
Christine Goepfert, Upper Midwest Program Manager

As a city-dweller, I like to get away to wide-open spaces, but I can’t always find the time. Luckily, I have a national park in my backyard. The Mississippi National River and Recreation Area is a 72-mile stretch of the mighty Mississippi that cuts right through Minneapolis, where I live. On a nice summer day, this iconic American river is only a bus or bike ride away. Given that Minneapolis is one of the nation’s most bike-friendly cities, there are lots of designated routes for biking to the river.

My first stop is Gold Medal Park, a great picnic spot along the river on West River Parkway. From there you can stroll through Mills Ruins Park, site of 19th-century ruins that were once mills powered by St. Anthony Falls. Not far away is the Stone Arch Bridge, with its 23 arches made of native granite and limestone, which spans the river below the falls and is a reminder of our nation’s railroad era. As you cross the bridge, you get a great view of the river, the falls, and the city, as well as a working lock and dam! In that same area along the Mississippi’s banks, I can grab a meal, take in a play at the world-renowned Guthrie Theater, or visit the Mill City Museum, which celebrates Minneapolis’ history of flour milling.

If I continue south on the River Parkway, which is part of the Grand Rounds National Scenic Byway, there are lots of bird-watching spots, where I might even catch a glimpse of the majestic bald eagle. Once I reach Minnehaha Falls, I am usually ready for a cold refreshment at my favorite spot, the Sea Salt Restaurant, where I can listen to the falls and, if I’m lucky, live musicians. I then like to continue south along bike trails to Fort Snelling State Park and hike Pike Island, where the Mississippi meets the Minnesota River. The island is a haven for deer, wild turkeys, and other wildlife. Off the island’s banks, you’ll see folks canoeing, kayaking, and fishing on the river. You almost forget that you are in the heart of a major metropolitan area.

Birding at Fort Foote, Civil War Defenses of Washington, Washington, D.C.
Nick Lund, Civil War Associate

When the Civil War broke out, Washington D.C. was surrounded by states sympathetic to the Confederacy and found itself vulnerable to attack. President Lincoln quickly ordered the construction of a ring of earthen forts around the city, and more than 65 forts were built by the time the war was over. Today, many of these remaining forts are managed by the National Park Service as a unit called the Civil War Defenses of Washington.  I enjoy these forts for their history, of course, as well as their unique locations all over the city. I also enjoy them—in particular Fort Foote along the Potomac in Maryland—for their wilderness. Fort Foote was built on high riverside bluffs, with massive cannons aimed downriver to protect D.C. from attacking ships. One of those huge cannons still remains, and now it sits in one of the most peaceful spots in reach of the District. As a birder, I love visiting Fort Foote because the deep woods and riverside location host a remarkable variety of species, from nesting osprey to dozens of migrating songbirds. It’s a beautiful and often overlooked park—and believe me, the sound of birds singing is much nicer than cannons booming!

Hiking White Rock and Sand Cave, Cumberland Gap National Historical Park, Kentucky
Don Barger, Director, Southeast Regional Office
Note: This is a fairly strenuous hike recommended for experienced hikers.

Cumberland Gap offers a number of wonderful natural areas along the length of Cumberland Mountain at the junction of Tennessee, Kentucky, and Virginia. The trailhead to White Rock and Sand Cave is off of Highway 58 in Ewing, Tennessee. Turn at the only flashing traffic signal in Ewing and drive toward the mountain (with White Rocks looming in front of you); the road dead-ends at the trailhead. The trail climbs about 1,500 feet to the ridgeline of the mountain to the spectacular views of White Rocks, sheer bluffs overlooking the Tennessee Valley. Continue hiking down the Ridge Trail and you’ll reach Sand Cave–one of the most splendid sandstone features in the eastern United States. The size of the cave and the erosion patterns of the sandstone will occupy you for a while, so allow yourself the time to sit, look, and listen. Going just beyond the turnoff to the Sand Cave on the ridgeline trail will allow you to complete the 7-8 mile loop and return to your car.  This hike can be especially spectacular during the fall season.

The company also released this interesting video on the development of the project and some of the challenges the team faced creating the panoramic visuals along the 58 trails they hiked.

Full disclosure: Nature Valley is a major donor to the National Parks Conservation Association. The company has obviously caught on to the fact that many granola-eaters care about the environment, and helps to protect and encourage visitation to many of America’s most treasured places.

Looking for something further off the beaten path than these three popular parks? You might enjoy a recent feature by National Geographic on the Top Ten Underappreciated National Parks which highlights some breathtaking destinations around the country with fewer tourists flocking to their gates each season. Wherever you’re headed, if you own a smartphone, don’t forget to load it up with a few good trip-planning apps, including NPCA’s own free park guide. (Yes, we are coming out with an Android version in just a couple of weeks.) Happy trails!

-Jennifer Errick, Editor, Online Communications